Joybuy Insights

Buying Hair Dye: How to Choose the Right Shade, Grey Coverage and Application

If you want to buy hair dye, you’ll find a wide range of permanent colours, foam hair dyes, cream hair dyes and ready-to-use colour masks. However, the differences aren’t limited to the shade. The formula, application, grey coverage and longevity all determine whether the result matches your expectations.

Common Pitfalls When Buying Hair Dye

1. Confusing the Colour Name with the Final Result

Names such as “Chocolate”, “Golden Blonde” or “Cool Brown” describe a colour direction, but they do not guarantee the same result on every head of hair. The decisive factors are the starting hair colour, amount of grey, previous colour treatments and hair structure. As a rule, permanent hair dye cannot lighten previously coloured, darker hair by any amount you choose.

That’s why you should check the before-and-after images on the packaging. On heavily lightened or repeatedly coloured hair, the result may differ from the model image.

2. “100% Grey Coverage” Doesn’t Always Mean the Same Thing

Manufacturer claims such as 100% grey coverage refer to the intended application and specific starting conditions. Very resistant or heavily grey hair may require a longer development time. For hair that is more than 50% grey, some products recommend extending the development time.

It’s also important to distinguish between permanent hair dye and a temporary or semi-permanent tint. A foam hair dye with a permanent formula is not the same as a wash-out colour-care product.

3. “Ammonia-Free” Doesn’t Automatically Mean Non-Irritating

An ammonia-free hair dye may contain other alkaline ingredients, such as ethanolamine. Ammonia-free products can still contain colourants that trigger allergic reactions. The legally required and manufacturer-recommended allergy alert test 48 hours before every application therefore remains essential.

Do not use colourants on irritated or damaged scalps. The instructions on the packaging and in the enclosed leaflet take priority.

The Most Important Selection Criteria

Permanence and Longevity

A permanent hair colour changes the hair colour permanently; the roots will then grow out visibly. However, colour intensity can still change due to washing, sunlight and heat. Claims such as “up to eight weeks” or “up to 100 days” are manufacturer specifications and depend on your hair, hair-care routine and washing frequency.

For regular root touch-ups, you should choose a shade that is as similar as possible. A more significant lightening or a pronounced change from warm to cool tones is more demanding to achieve at home.

Choosing a Shade by Colour Family

  • Dark blonde hair dye: suitable for a natural, medium blonde direction. Cool tones visually reduce warm reflects, while gold and honey shades create a warmer effect.
  • Brown hair dye: ranges from espresso and chocolate brown to golden brown and mocha. Warm brown shades contain golden or reddish reflects.
  • Blonde hair dye: should be selected particularly carefully based on your starting hair colour. Lightening is not the same as using a standard blonde colour.
  • Natural hair colour: for a subtle result, shades close to your natural starting colour are usually easier to assess.
  • Striking or creative shades: semi-permanent products such as Wella Color Fresh Create are suitable for visible colour changes and gradual fading later on.

Cream, Foam or Ready-to-Use Colour Care

A cream hair dye usually stays in place in a controlled way and is suitable for precise application to the roots. Foam hair dye can often be distributed quickly throughout the hair. One pack may not be enough for long or very thick hair.

Ready-to-use products that don’t require mixing are practical for refreshing your colour. However, they do not automatically offer the same longevity as oxidative colourants. So check whether the product is described as permanent, semi-permanent or colour care.

Assessing Ingredients and Conditioning Treatments Realistically

Many kits include a conditioning treatment to use after colouring, containing oils, panthenol, keratin or other conditioning ingredients. These can leave the hair feeling softer and smoother after rinsing. However, a conditioning treatment does not replace personalised hair care and does not automatically make a colourant “gentle”.

Check the complete ingredients list, particularly if you have known intolerances. Gloves should be worn throughout the entire application.

Our Selection for Different Buyer Profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Schwarzkopf Perfect Mousse Foam Hair Color 6-65/665 Light Chocolate Gold

Schwarzkopf Perfect Mousse Foam Hair Color 6-65/665 Light Chocolate Gold

Why this product suits this profile: The foam texture is designed to make colouring your hair at home straightforward and can be distributed from the roots through to the ends. The warm golden-brown shade is ideal for shoppers looking for a brown tone with lighter reflects.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The permanent, ammonia-free formula and stated grey coverage make the product’s features easier to assess before purchase.

Key benefit & strengths

Foam format, permanent colour type and an included conditioning treatment containing panthenol and oils, among other ingredients.

Suitable for: Shoppers with high quality expectations
GARNIER Nutrisse Creme Care Hair Color 5.35 Golden Fawn Brown

GARNIER Nutrisse Creme Care Hair Color 5.35 Golden Fawn Brown

Why this product suits this profile: The creamy, non-drip texture is designed for even application. Shade 5.35 combines brown with golden reflects and is aimed at shoppers who value a rich conditioning treatment included in the kit.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description specifies the creamy consistency, grey coverage and intended development time rather than making only a general promise of shine.

Key benefit & strengths

Permanent cream hair dye, stated grey coverage and a conditioning treatment with fruit oils.

Suitable for: Special uses & frequent users
Ledun Rohto 50 - Eda Natural Seaweed Hair Dye and Conditioner Light Brown

Ledun Rohto 50 - Eda Natural Seaweed Hair Dye and Conditioner (Light Brown)

Why this product suits this profile: This ready-to-use product requires no mixing and is designed for regular colour refreshes and targeted applications. It is marketed as a colour-care product with five seaweed extracts and a light brown shade.

How this product avoids the pitfall

Using it as a ready-to-use colour-care product prevents a quick refresh from being confused with a permanent colour treatment.

Key benefit & strengths

No mixing required, thicker consistency and designed for repeated colour refreshes.

Suitable for: Shoppers interested in ammonia-free formulas
Garnier Olia Hair Color Ammonia-Free Very Light Natural Blonde

Garnier Olia Hair Color, Ammonia-Free, Very Light Natural Blonde

Why this product suits this profile: This permanent, ammonia-free hair colour is an appealing option for people who prefer a light natural blonde direction and a creamy, non-drip application.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula is explicitly labelled as ammonia-free. Even so, the allergy alert test is still required before every application.

Key benefit & strengths

Permanent colour treatment, ammonia-free labelling, oil-based product description and an included conditioning treatment.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, regularly updated list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the safety regulations applicable in the EU.

At-Home Application: Steps You Shouldn’t Miss

  1. Carry out an allergy alert test 48 hours beforehand: This test is required before every application, even for products you have used before.
  2. Check your starting hair: Take your natural hair colour, amount of grey, previous colouring and desired change into account.
  3. Mix only as instructed: Colour cream and developer must not be combined with other products.
  4. Follow the development time: Different timings may apply to resistant or heavily grey hair.
  5. Rinse thoroughly: Rinse until the water is mostly clear, then use the conditioning treatment included.
  6. Do not store leftovers: Mixed colourant can expand. It must not be placed in a sealed bottle or stored.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions About Buying Hair Dye

Which Hair Colour Is Suitable for Grey Hair?

For grey or white hair, permanent products with stated grey coverage are an option. Pay attention to the recommended shade and development time. For a high proportion of grey hair, the instructions may recommend a longer development time.

How Long Does Permanent Hair Colour Last?

Permanent colour grows out at the roots, while the lengths may lose intensity through washing and external influences. Specific claims such as eight weeks or 100 days are manufacturer specifications and will not be identical for every head of hair.

Is Ammonia-Free Hair Dye Automatically Better Tolerated?

No. “Ammonia-free” describes one particular aspect of the formula, but it does not mean that allergic reactions are impossible. Read the ingredients, follow all warnings and carry out the allergy alert test 48 hours before every application.